Anna Lee Nabors
Tierin Burrow
Dinan/ Dinard
As part of ourfirst excursion with the CIREFE, our language school at the
Université Rennes 2, we took a trip north to the medieval Breton towns of Dinan
and Dinard. In Dinan we saw the St. Sauveur Basilica, built in the 12th
century and filled with monuments to Breton icons such as famed knight Bertrand
Du Guesclin and the beloved Duchess “Saint” Anne de Bretagne. St. Anne is
celebrated throughout Brittany for uniting Brittany with the kingdom of France.
We also had a great view of the River Rance from the English gardens and
mountaintop behind the church. Following that, we had time to explore some of
the streets lined with wooden buildings, some dating back to the Middle Ages,
and peruse gift shops filled with Breton classics such as caramels, ceramic
bowls personalized with pictures of leisurely Breton lifestyle and the buyer’s
name, and striped boating shirts. Dinan, almost hidden on a mountaintop in the
western corner of France, really fulfills any dreams of experiencing French
culture including religion, history, environment, culture, and even cheesy
tourist stuff. Beyond that, it’s one of those places in the world where it is
very easy to forget the time you’re in, or even that you’re a foreigner,
because it feels like something out of a story.
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Dinan over the valley of the River Rance
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Our stop in
Dinard was brief but another lovely glimpse into everything this north-western
corner of France has to offer. It sits just across the spot where the River
Rance spills into the English Channel from St. Malo. I think the most amusing
thing that I learned there is that in parts of northern France like Dinard,
they construct pools on the sandy beaches because the tides are so extreme and
often the walk to the water is too long. However, most people on Wednesday were
enjoying the real beaches. Dinard is a beach town and a port, both in full use
when the weather is as lovely as it was the day we visited.
St. Malo
The last adventure of our excursion
was a visit to the port city, St. Malo. After climbing the twisting roads
of Dinard the group boarded a boat and traveled across the Bay of St.
Malo. This opportunity allowed us to take in the striking coastal cities,
such as Dinard, all at once. Once we arrived, the group departed the boat
and entered the walled city. St. Malo is treasured for it’s medieval
character and known for its history as the home of French privateers ("Corsaires").
Similar to pirates, privateers overtook passing vessels and stole their
goods. However unlike pirates, the privateers’ sieges and ransacking were
ordered by the St. Malo government. The preservation of the city’s walls and
attached castle is one of the principle characteristic of St. Malo that cause
one to imagine they have traveled back to the medieval era. Additionally, the
city pays tribute to Jacques Cartier, an explorer of Canada, and native to St
Malo. When walking along the castles walls one is able to spot Quebec flags in
honor of his contribution to his city and the ongoing Quebecois connection to St.
Malo, promoted by the Maison du Quebec, an active cultural center in St. Malo.
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| The walls of St. Malo from the beach |
What adds even more charm to St. Malo is the vast beaches open to walk
around—if the tide is out. Another interesting characteristic of St. Malo is
its tide patterns. The group was warned that should one dare to take a
nap on the vast beach only in a matter of hours later would they would find
themselves surrounded by water due to the tide quickly returning to meet the
fortified walls of St. Malo. After exploring the beach, the group was able to
adventure down the cobbled streets filled with small shops and crêperies or
even venture into the castle and brave the twisted narrow staircase to the
watch towers. After our visit we not only discovered St. Malo to be a perfect
hideaway for a beach day, but also a city rooted in rich history that until
now, we’ve only been able to experience in adventure books.
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